2016 Barolo San Giovanni

Gianfranco Alessandria's flagship wine, the 2016 Barolo San Giovanni sees fruit from a cru in Monforte d'Alba that is celebrated for structure and power. This is the biggest Barolo in the family portfolio. Of the various 2016 Baroli I tasted for this report, the wines from Monforte d'Alba are among the most closed and tight at this early stage. That observation gives me confidence in this wine's aging future. The fruit is nervous and brimming with energy that will become softer over time. At this young stage, you taste tart berry flavors with tar, smoke and cola. I double decanted my sample and went for a second taste about four hours later before writing this review. The oak spice and smoke come into view a bit later as the wine takes on air. Some 5,000 bottles were released at the beginning of this year.

The 2016 Barolo San Giovanni is packed with dark cherry/plum, fruit, espresso, chocolate, spice and leather. Powerful and rich in the glass, this dark, brooding Barolo will appeal most to readers who enjoy racy, flamboyant Barolos. Time in the glass brings out attractive floral and spice notes that add freshness. The San Giovanni is undoubtably a gorgeous, sensual Barolo. The French oak influence is less overt than it was a few years ago, but it is still part of the wine's personality.