2009 Domaine de Beaurenard Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Boisrenard Reserve

Deep ruby. Expressive aromas of red and dark berry preserves, cola, sandalwood and vanilla. Offers juicy black raspberry and boysenberry flavors lifted by tangy acidity and complicated by a suave floral quality. The long, powerful finish features intense oak spices. Give this wine a little time to absorb its wood element.

The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Boisrenard (60% Grenache and 40% other varietals from 60- to 100-year-old vines) reveals a hint of toasty vanillin from its aging in small oak, but I have been buying these wines for many years, and that characteristic usually disappears by age 7 or 8. This dense ruby/purple-tinged, round, generous, plump, succulent effort reveals hints of graphite, black currants, blackberries and kirsch. Heady as well as softer than most vintages tend to be at this age, with admirable concentration, purity and texture, it should drink nicely for 10-15 years. One of the great old families of Chateauneuf du Pape, the Coulons have been biodynamically farming their vineyards for decades, which can’t be easy given the fact that they own over two dozen parcels spread throughout the appellation. The 2009s performed even better this year than they did last year prior to bottling. Both 2010s were primary and extremely young. Having tasted in Chateauneuf du Pape at the same time of year (usually 11-12 months after the harvest) for many years, few vintages seemed as young and primary as 2010 (others were 2007 and 1998). Importers: A Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin; Lauber Imports, Somerville, NJ; tel. (908) 725-2100 and Ruby Wines, Avon, MA; tel. (508) 588-7007

A field blend of mainly Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre that’s aged for 18 months in small, 1-5 year old French oak barrels, the modern styled 2009 Domaine de Beaurenard (Paul Coulon et Fils) Châteauneuf-du-Pape Boisrenard shows its oak elevage on nose with graphite and butcher shop-like aromas intermixed that are buffered by thrilling crème de cassis, white chocolate, licorice, and meat juice-like qualities on the nose. Despite the oak, this has brilliant purity of fruit and stays light and fresh, without ever being heavy or cumbersome. Full-bodied on the palate, with fantastic concentration, a rich, firm texture, and loads of structure, this smoking Châteauneuf-du-Pape isn’t for those that shy away from a modern style, but is stunning nonetheless. Give bottles 3-5 years in the cellar, and then drink over the following two decades.