1998 Kay Brothers Amery Shiraz Hillside
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Readers should be aware that the Kay Brothers produced a Shiraz Hillside that is aged in 100% new American oak and made from relatively young vines that are the same clone as the Shiraz planted in Block 6. The Hillside Shiraz is very much made in the same style as the Block 6. There are approximately 1,000 cases of it, and it usually sells for a good $25 less per bottle, at least in the United States. It is very much made in the style of the Block 6, it just does not have the old vines and single block acclaim. Imported by Dan Philips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; tel. (888) 472-5283.
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Robert Parker
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The 1998 Shiraz Amery Vineyard tips the scales at 14.8% alcohol and is made from 15-year old vines cropped at a meager 1.5-2.5 tons of fruit per acre. This is a substantial, full-throttle, somewhat old style Shiraz with smoky, earthy, leathery, charcoal, and blackberry notes in the nose and flavors. It waddles across the palate with considerable extract, weight, and heaviness. It is deep, chewy, muscular, with the fruit and glycerin largely concealing some tannin. The wood seems to be kept within reason (it was aged 18 months in American oak barrels, but it is hard to believe there is much new oak based on its aromas and flavors.) This wine should evolve for at least another 12-15 years. Importer: Dan Philips, The Grateful Palate, Oxnard, CA; tel. (888) 472-5283
Full ruby. Roasted nutty black fruits, meat, graphite and smoky oak on the nose. A fat, dense fruit bomb, with vibrant flavors of cassis, smoked meat, tar and leather. This boasts remarkable fruit for six-year-old vines. Chewy finish features thoroughly lush tannins.