2012 Domaine Long-Depaquit Bichot Chablis La Moutonne Grand Cru
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Tasting notes
The 2012 Chablis Grand Cru Moutonne comes from 2.35 hectares of 43-year-old vine and is raised 25% in wooden barrel and 75% in stainless steel for 9 months. It has a complex nose, very vibrant and almost fiery, with fresh ginger, beeswax and honeysuckle aromas bounding from the glass. The palate is very well-balanced with a viscous entry, good acidity and poise. There is great depth here, but it is tightly wound and introspective on the finish. I suggest four or five years in bottle before reaching for the waiter’s friend. Drink 2018-2028. Readers may remember my waxing lyrical about the 2011s from Chateau Long-Depaquit last year, after I encountered the wines at an Albert Bichot tasting chez Vinexpo. This estate was founded back in 1791 after the French Revolution. Previously La Moutonne itself had belonged to the monks of Pontigny and included 1.1 hectares in Vaudesir. The current La Moutonne comes from those vines augmented by others located in Les Preuses but despite this, the INAO still do not recognize it has an official grand cru. Status aside, I found much to enjoy here, a testament to the winemaking skills of Alain Serveau and his team. Importer: Albert Bichot (US).
Critic scores
Average Score
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Bright, pale yellow. Sexy, subdued aromas of peach, lemon zest and spicy dried fruits. Large-scaled, rich and powerful, conveying an impression of almost liqueur-like ripeness. Notes of toasty oak and vanilla are more than supported by the wine's huge material. Finishes dense and voluminous but not at all heavy, with terrific chewy persistence. Acidity levels are generally in the range of 4.1 to 4.2 grams per liter in 2012, according to Mangenot.
Restrained aroma but there is a depth of stony lemon fruit waiting to emerge. Dense and dry and beautifully balanced between depth of fruit and zesty refreshing intensity. Very long and almost gentle – for Chablis – on the finish. (JH)
(25% oak): Bright yellow with green highlights. Musky yellow peach, ginger, anise, white pepper and flowers on the expressive nose. Impressively rich and densely packed, with thick yet somehow bracing flavors of lemon, lime, spices and pepper. Builds slowly and lingers impressively on the salty, minerally finish. Rich, deep and complete but this will need several years of bottle aging. "Always less expressive early on than the Vaudesirs," notes regisseur Mangenot. Impressive potential here.
About the producer
Although the Bichot family settled in the region in 1350, Albert Bichot was founded in 1831 by Bernard Bichot. Today the producer is one of Burgundy’s most respected, making wines from both its own vineyards and with purchased fruit.