2009 Domaine Grand Veneur Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Origines

The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Origines (1,500 cases produced) is a blend of 50% Grenache, a whopping 30% Mourvedre and 20% Syrah with the latter two components spending time in new oak barrels. All of the fruit comes from vines that are nearly 70 years of age. A great wine with an opaque ruby/purple color, sensational fruit intensity and notes of graphite, lavender, licorice, lead pencil shavings and subtle smoke, it is full-bodied, rich and powerful with low acidity and sweet, velvety tannins. It should drink well for 15+ years. Don’t miss the following “Best Buys” reviewed in several previous issues: Alain Jaume 2010 Cotes du Rhone Haut de Brune (87), Grand Veneur 2010 Cotes du Rhone Blanc (88), Grand Veneur 2009 Cotes du Rhone Les Champauvins (89), Grand Veneur 2009 Cotes du Rhone Reserve Blanc (89), Grand Veneur 2010 Cotes du Rhone Blanc (91), Grand Veneur 2010 Cotes du Rhone Rose (86), Grand Veneur 2009 Lirac Clos de Sixte (91), and Grand Veneur 2010 Cotes du Rhone Blanc de Viognier (89). Credit Christophe and Sebastian Jaume for making this one of the most impeccably run estates in the Rhone Valley. To reiterate, this is an estate at the top of its game and the wines remain fairly priced as well. The 2010 Grand Veneur Chateauneuf du Papes reveal youthful, crisper, more focused styles than their 2009 counterparts. I suspect their pHs are lower, the total acids slightly higher, and the alcohols perhaps .5 to 1% lower across the board. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228

A brilliant wine and an unquestionable success in the vintage, the Domaine Grand Veneur Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Origines is a blend of 50 % Grenache, 20 % Syrah, and 30 % Mourvèdre that’s aged for 18 months in new oak casks. Despite this elevage, the wine soaks up the oak and delivers a spectacularly pure array of crème de cassis, blackberry, spice, licorice, and toast. The purity and freshness are captivating, and the wine shows full body, beautiful focus, a classic, firm texture, and very silky, yet substantial tannin on the finish. Give bottles of solid 3-5 years and then drink over the following 15+ years.

Opaque ruby. Sexy aromas of red and dark berry preserves and apricot pit and a spicy quality that gains strength with air. Very fresh, juicy raspberry and blackberry flavors gather depth and spiciness with aeration. Shows serious depth but there's excellent energy here as well. Finishes with very good lift and excellent clarity.