1999 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis

The 1999 Barolo Cannubi Boschis is from the vineyard which helped this producer make his name, and over the last 20 years it has been the appellation’s outstanding Barolo from the cru. A fresh garnet with the classic elegant nose of Cannubi – roses, cinnamon, licorice, and minerals, it possesses superbly stylish flavors, a velvet texture, a perfect balance of concentration and suppleness, and exemplary overall harmony, all the signature of this producer’s work. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2020. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

Dark ruby. Luciano Sandrone's 1999 Barolo Cannubi Boschis is another gem from this underrated vintage. It offers an attractive nose, with aromas of flowers, toasted oak, menthol and minerals that waft out of the glass. Still primary, it exudes tremendous vibrancy and richness in its sweet dark fruit, with notable length, great overall balance and a refined, elegant finish. Although it has started to shut down somewhat in the bottle it should begin to be at its best in another few years, and will still be a memorable wine at age 20. Several recent bottles have all been outstanding, and a bottle I left open in my cellar was still deeply expressive a week later.

The 1999 is easily one of the best wines in the series. It offers rich sensations of spices, flowers, toasted oak and minerals along with well-delineated layers of ripe dark fruit, menthol, and eucalyptus flavors, finishing with exceptional structure, length and freshness. I didn't taste the superb 1989 (see above) at age six, but when I tasted this 1999 on a later occasion, the first thing that came into my mind was a young version of that wine. The 1999 will require at least a few years of bottle age and will start to be at its best around 2009, after which it should last another decade.