2008 Mount Mary - Triolet

Blended of 70% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Semillon and 10% Muscadelle, the 2008 Triolet spent 11 months in old oak, a third of it in large format with lees stirring for 3-4 months. It is lemon curd and pineapple scented, with subtle notes of struck match, nuts, chalk dust, and brine. The medium-bodied palate lends crisp acid and a long chalky finish. Drinking now, it should continue to cellar until 2015. The late John Middleton’s cult estate is now in the hands of sons Nick and Sam Middleton with Rob Hall making the wines for the last eight years. According to Nick and Sam, John was pretty hands-on and fastidious right up until his death in 2006. He realized the potential dangers of Brettanomyces relatively early-on - some of his wines from the 1990s display varying states of infection - and from 2002 the reds have all been filtered to offer some protection. To see a winery of such enormous potential handling Brett in this manner is a very big disappointment to me. Most wineries of this status have found other more successful and less damaging means of handling this menace. The current releases are unquestionably good, but I can’t help imagine how very great they could be. Importer: Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; www.oldbridgecellars.com