2005 Domaine Bertagna Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru

In a class by itself among the wines in this collection, the Bertagna 2005 Clos Vougeot leads with lovely black raspberry and cassis, backed by smoky meatiness. In the mouth and finish, this displays substantiality, fat, and grip, but without sacrificing any of the fresh-fruit character that accrues to all of the wines in this collection. Deep meatiness, chalk, and fruit pit bitterness lend gravitas to the long lingering fruit. This should be well worth cellaring for at least 10-12 years. Christophe Vial has move here from de Montille to become the cellarmaster, but oenologist Claire Forestier was responsible for these 2005s. I hope I shall prove to have hit them on a bad day. But abstracting from possible (in some instances obvious) effects of having just been racked to tank and sulfured in preparation for bottling, I found many of these wines lacking in striking personalities or grip. Some evinced toasty hints of barrel despite the percentage of new wood being low (only rising above 20-30% in the case of Chambertin) suggesting that they might be a bit “underwined.” Also recommended: 2005 Hautes-Cotes de Nuits ($ 28.00-20.00; 84), 2005 Vougeot ($65.00-70.00; 85), 2005 Vougeot Les Petits Vougeot ($95.00-100.00; 85-87) 2005 Vougeot Les Cras ($95.00-100.00; 85-87+?), 2005 Vougeot Clos de la Perriere ($110.00-115.00; 85-87+?), 2005 Chambolle-Musigny ($65.00-70.00; 85-87), Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800.