2010 Olivier Bernstein Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

There is no need to actually taste the 2010 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze. The exotic, beguiling bouquet is enough to understand the pedigree of what is in the glass. Blackberries, blueberries, licorice and tar develop with air, adding weight and depth to the wine. The characteristic Bèze muscle is mostly felt in the wine's serious, imposing finish. This is another fabulous effort from Oliver Bernstein.

There is no need to actually taste the 2010 Chambertin Clos-de-Beze. The exotic, beguiling bouquet is enough to understand the pedigree of what is in the glass. Blackberries, blueberries, licorice and tar develop with air, adding weight and depth to the wine. The characteristic Beze muscle is mostly felt in the wine’s serious, imposing finish. This is another fabulous effort from Oliver Bernstein. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030. Olivier Bernstein is one of the younger generation of micro-negociants who owns no vineyards, but rather sources fruit from a variety of vineyards. In just a few years Bernstein has put together an impressive collection of wines from some of the Cote d’Or’s most prestigious appellations. Bernstein describes 2010 as a vintage with a lot of millerandage (shot berries). The 2010s were vinified with 50% stems and the malos finished in July, which is fairly standard for the year. None of the 2010s had been racked at the time of my visit in late November 2011 and bottling was planned for March and April 2012. Stylistically, these are fleshy, generous wines that stand apart for their textural depth. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, imported by: Fine Vines LLC, Melrose Park. IL; tel. (708) 343-6702

Not especially expressive – certainly not as much as Rousseau’s. Very firm structure. Juicy. Sweet fruit. Not the energy of some of his grands crus. Fine boned but with less drama and intensity than some others. May put on flesh and excitement. Good but... (JR)