2009 Domaine de la Mordorée Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de la Reine des Bois
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Tasting notes
One of the more youthful wines in the retrospective, the 2009 Châteauneuf Du Pape Cuvée De La Reine Des Bois is deep plum-hued with very little bricking and an opaque core. It has a terrific nose of ripe back fruits, black olive, roasted meats, and peppery garrigue that carries to a full-bodied 2009 offering a deep, layered mid-palate, just about flawless balance, sweet yet still present tannins, and a great finish. This is magical stuff that comes close to rivaling the 2001. It might even have a touch of upside, yet I think it's firmly in the middle of its prime drinking window with another 10-15 years of longevity. Based on 70% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, 5% Vaccarèse, and 5% Counoise, it was vinified in equal parts stainless steel and concrete tanks, then aged in 30% old barrels and 70% stainless steel. Hats off to the team of Domaine de la Mordoree. Drink: 2025-2038.
Critic scores
Jeb Dunnuck
Jancis Robinson MW
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A blockbuster-styled effort, the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de La Reine des Bois doesn’t pull any punches and gives up rocking aromas and flavors of black raspberry, cassis, graphite, spice-box, lavender and herbs. Possessing full-bodied richness, sweet tannin and thrilling purity, it can be enjoyed now for its exuberant character, but will also evolve gracefully going forward. As I wrote in the intro for this domaine last year, Domaine de la Mordoree is a reference point estate for Chateauneuf du Pape. Run by the talented brother duo of Fabrice and Christophe Delorme, with Christophe making the wines, they produce a relatively modern-styled Chateauneuf, as well as more than noteworthy Liracs and Tavels. For this tasting at the domaine (I was also able to taste through this full lineup again, from bottles in the U.S.), we started with the older vintages and worked toward the more current releases. In addition to their Reine des Bois cuvee, the Delorme brothers also release a special cuvee call the Cuvee de la Plume du Peintre. It’s made only in top vintages, and, as of today, it’s only been made in 2003 and 2005. There’s a scant 150 cases of each. Coming from a plot of 80-year-old vines located in the famed La Crau lieu-dit, the blend has changed between the two releases, as has the elevage. Importer: Fran Kysela, Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228; fax (540) 722-9258
Vivid ruby. Deeply pitched black raspberry, cherry and floral aromas are brightened by notes of Asian spices and minerals. Rich and fleshy but shockingly lithe, offering juicy red and dark berry compote flavors and complicating notes of candied lavender and allspice. Finishes sweet and long, with outstanding clarity and persistence.