2021 Linne Calodo The Contrarian

I loved the 2021 Contrarian, a brilliant white based on 58% Grenache Blanc, 38% Viognier, and the rest Picpoul, fermented and aged in concrete eggs. It's one exotic effort offering bright peach and honeyed citrus fruits, some spice and floral nuances, medium to full body, a round mouthfeel, and a good, fruit-loaded finish. Drink this friendly, fruit-forward white over the coming couple of years. I was only able to taste a few of Matt Trevisan’s Linne Calodo releases, but these continue to be terrific wines that are overflowing with character. The wines are almost always blends and focus either on Rhône varieties or Zinfandel-based blends. I loved both 2019s I was able to taste, and the 2020s showed well, although the 2020 Nemesis seemed to have some influence in the aromatics, so it’s one to watch, and I would drink that bottle in its youth.

Limpid yellow-gold. Succulent pear, Meyer lemon and nectarine aromas are complemented by suggestions of honey, jasmine and chalky minerals. Seamless and penetrating on the palate, offering juicy orchard and pit fruit flavors that show excellent depth and a core of smoky minerality. Clings with excellent tenacity on the finish, which leaves bitter orange pith and peach nectar notes behind. Raised in concrete eggs.