1998 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de Mon Aieul

The first vintage, the 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de Mon Aieul is still drinking gorgeously today. Made from roughly 80% old-vine Grenache, 10% Syrah, and 10% Cinsault and aged in the oldest foudre in the cellar at that time, it sports a fully mature, amber/ruby color to go with classic notes of olive tapenade, tobacco leaf, cured meats, figs, sweet kirsch and assorted darker fruit on the nose. Full-bodied, sweetly fruited, voluptuous and layered, it's clearly at peak and in need of consuming, but will hold going forward for several years. Like with the classic cuvee, I don't see any upside. Still, this is a beautiful, mature Chateauneuf du Pape that's a joy to drink.

A borderline perfect wine, the 1998 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de mon Aïeul shows plenty of southern Rhône typicity but is jacked up with amazingly concentrated fruit and serious structure. The nose shows beautiful garrigue, raspberry, earth, spice and licorice notes and with air, this picked up a darker, richer profile. The palate is full bodied, perfectly balanced and possesses huge fruit and a blockbuster, tannic finish.

The first vintage, the 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de Mon Aieul is still drinking gorgeously today. Made from roughly 80% old-vine Grenache, 10% Syrah, and 10% Cinsault and aged in the oldest foudre in the cellar at that time, it sports a fully mature, amber/ruby color to go with classic notes of olive tapenade, tobacco leaf, cured meats, figs, sweet kirsch and assorted darker fruit on the nose. Full-bodied, sweetly fruited, voluptuous and layered, it's clearly at peak and in need of consuming, but will hold going forward for several years. Like with the classic cuvee, I don't see any upside. Still, this is a beautiful, mature Chateauneuf du Pape that's a joy to drink. eRobertParker.com.August, 2015