2006 Domaine Jean-Marc Pavelot Savigny-lès-Beaune Aux Guettes 1er Cru

The Pavelot 2006 Savigny-les-Beaune Aux Guettes displays a gamey nose and – in more senses than one – a slightly furry palate. There is a stony undertone, leaving one wishing – despite admirable finishing persistence – that there were a bit more sheer fruit to accompany the animal and mineral bases that this wine has firmly covered. It had been in bottle only three weeks last I tasted, so it might have recovered some fruit and sap in he meantime. But I doubt it will merit cellaring for more than 2-3 years. Hugues and Jean-Marc Pavelot – who began harvesting September 20 – approached the fruits of this vintage with caution and were in most instances very restrained in promoting fermentative extraction. The results are mixed, but in the best instances their approach has paid off in charming, youthfully satisfying wines. Wassserman Selections (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70