2004 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay Clos du Château des Ducs 1er Cru

Medium red, a bit less bright than the premier cru. Red plum, cherry and smoke on the nose, complicated by leather and spices. Round, ripe and broad; larger-scaled than the Vendanges Selectionnees but perhaps a bit less pure. Hints at the superripe character that often resulted in 2004 when vines hit by August hail gained quickly in grape sugars in the following weeks. Has the fat to support its dusty tannins. This one really calls for four or five years of bottle aging.