2007 Domaine Louis Michel et Fils Chablis Montee de Tonnerre 1er Cru

The 2007 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre leads with musk, white truffle, and illusive animal scents. Lemon zest and smoky, fusil notes add complexity in the nose. A pungently herbed chicken stock character laced with lemon pip, peach kernel, coffee bean, and sizzling suggestions of citrus zest and white pepper follows into a vigorous and gripping if not especially ingratiating finish. A certain severity is unsurprising in wine from vines that were hit by hail harder than others chez Michel. But if this can steer clear of bitterness or funk as it evolves, there is the promise of further complexity and intrigue over the next 4-6 years. For Jean-Loup Michel and his nephew Guillaume Cicqueau-Michel – who did not begin picking until September 12 – the first half of that month made the difference in terms of quality, indeed “saved the harvest.” I would not want the wines of this rather steely, at times lean (exclusively stainless-steel matured) collection to have been one whit less ripe, but the best of them are brilliantly citric and mineral. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802