2010 Domaine Louis Michel et Fils Chablis Grenouilles Grand Cru
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Tasting notes
The Michel 2010 Chablis Grenouilles leads with lemony brightness and intimations of herbs and apple pip that re-emerge on the still-firm palate as piquant stimulants. Iodine and chalk, toasted shrimp shells, claim juices, and oyster liqueur lend saliva-inducement to a memorably long and diverse finish. I suspect that this will prove well-worth following through 2010, though given its present performance I would advocate savoring at intervals beginning as soon as possible! I heard skepticism voiced by some seasoned observers of the Chablis scene as to the Michel wines would fare in 2012, given that this estate relies to a significant extent on machine harvest. The short answer is, very well, if – unsurprisingly – not quite so well as in such recent vintages as 2007, 2008, 2010, or probably ultimately also 2011. But considering the consistent quality that Guillaume Cicqueau-Michel’s uncle and predecessor as director, Jean-Loup Michel, achieved in precarious 2006 (which I reported on in issue 179), surely it’s time to bury prejudice based on methodological or even ideological preconceptions and give this domaine the benefit of the doubt even in years when you suspect that a dearth of hand-harvesters might have proven to be at least a slight handicap. Young Cicqueau-Michel cited a litany of difficulties in 2012, to be sure, but the upshot of these was principally diminution in quantity (in certain crus by half) rather than quality. The premier crus – which, incidentally, finished at between 12.9%-13.5% alcohol – are expected to be bottled this September, and the grand crus around the end of the year or early next. Exclusively spontaneous fermentation has been a fact here now for five vintages, but even if the indigenous yeast population is strengthening, Michel reports that fermentations continue to be slower than they were prior to 2008. That said, they still typically finish in January. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Pale yellow. Subdued but pure aromas of fresh peach and dusty stone; hints at noble rot but there's excellent lift here as well. At once sweet and energetic, offering very good cut and strong mineral and powdered stone elements. Not a particularly fat style of Grenouilles. Finishes tactile, dusty and long, with a late note of cocoa bean. I like this.
Lively and juicy. Lightly chalky but without quite the precision I’d hoped for. (JR)
Pale yellow. Lively aromas of spicy green apple, lime and white pepper. Concentrated and suave, with some very ripe peach and nectarine notes enlivened by well-integrated acidity. Conveys a strong impression of dusty dry extract and finishes with impressive subtle length.