2009 Domaine Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers 1er Cru

The 2009 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers is an immediate, pleasing wine with excellent up-front juiciness in its yellow stone fruits. Some of the persistence drops off on the mid-palate and finish, exposing slightly angular contours. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. I tasted all of these wines with Michel Niellon in his huge warehouse facility just outside of Chassagne. The 2009s are made in a style that emphasizes freshness. Niellon thinks wines peak at 6-7 years after releases and he is clearly going for an accessible style. That said, I found all the wines all shows better with air, except for the Chevalier, which unfortunately remained stubborn throughout my visit. I hope to have a chance to retaste it in the future. The 2009s saw 25% new oak. The wines are racked in July, after the malos, and were bottled before the 2010 harvest. Niellon told me he might pursue longer elevage for some of his wines now that space is not a constraint. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400

Much more up-front fruit than the Maltroie. Lemon, touch of spice, even a hint of honey. Then very different on the palate, savoury, mineral, even austere. Very good length. (JH)

(these vines are now 12 years old) Pale, bright, green-tinged yellow. Aromas of yellow peach and almond flower. Juicy and fresh but with moderate depth and texture to its ripe stone fruit flavors. On the lean side but with good acid cut. And nicely aromatic on the back end.