2009 Stolpman Angeli

(15.3% alcohol; from the winery's best barrels of syrah): Full medium ruby. Slightly high-toned aromas of black raspberry, smoky minerality, brown spices and Peking smoked duck. Like liquid velvet in the mouth, with superconcentrated, marrowy flavors of dark fruits, spices and minerals. A real essence of syrah, with the sheer verve to keep the alcohol in the deep background. Finishes with palate-staining perfume of crushed black cherry and pepper. I was reminded of La Landonne, but this wine will offer much more early appeal. (ST)

Some pleasant fruit but turns slightly jammy, oaky and simple. Drink now.

The 2009 Syrah Angeli is a deeply colored, massive wine imbued with black fruit, olives, grilled herbs and licorice, all of which take shape beautifully in the glass. The opulence and full-throttle personality is backed up by firm tannins that need time to resolve. This is one of the most massive, concentrated Syrahs I tasted, yet the wine's balance is impeccable. The sweet, perfumed finish contributes additional layers of complexity.