2008 Maison Joseph Drouhin Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

“The grapes were really beautiful for this one,” notes Veronique Boss-Drouhin, and around one quarter of them were left to go into the fermentor intact and with stems. Vinified in a 400 liter barrel custom-made to accommodate this year’s drastically-reduced crop (and which constitutes the entirety of Domaine Philippe Drouhin), the Drouhin 2008 Bonnes Mares practically explodes on the nose and palate with tiny, wild berries, baking spices, and white pepper. One is conscious of the barrel with its resin and caramel notes, but they don’t intrude. The ester-rich aromatic intensity and practically vibratory palate impression here – as well as an abundance of fine tannin – promise serious, perhaps even two decade aging potential. Don’t look to this wine for nuance or refinement – or at least, not for now. In fact, don’t drink more than a bottle of it just for the experience over the next half dozen years. “2008 was very slow in doing its malolactic – which was good, and ended up with a pretty lively impression of acidity” remarked Veronique Boss-Drouhin, “and I think the wines will be slow to evolve in bottle, as well.” Numerous cuvees were still in tank or barrel when I visited in March, which constitutes an unusually late schedule at this address. The 2007s, by contrast, were bottled even earlier than normal, most at age 12 months. In 2008, a 15-25% share of stems and whole clusters was included in the fermenting vat for the Clos des Mouches and for most of the Drouhin grand crus, whereas in 2007 that degree of vendange entier was practically the rule across the entire Drouhin range (by no means all of which I tasted). Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

(just 400 liters made from production of 20 hectoliters per hectare, vs. a normal four barrels) Good full, deep red. Lovely lift and delicacy to the complex aromas of flowers, pepper, minerals, brown spices, white pepper and herbs. An outstanding Bonnes-Mares in the making, with superb definition and lift-as well as a medicinal reserve-to the red berry, spice, white pepper and rose petal flavors. This impeccably balanced wine finishes with serious tannic spine and terrific aromatic persistence.