2003 Camille Giroud Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru

Fashioned from young vines located at the bottom of its grand cru (by the N74), the 2003 Clos Vougeot was harvested at 14.8% natural potential alcohol. Two bottles of this intensely spicy, black fruit-scented wine were tasted, one that was opened in front of me and another that was opened more than 24 hours before and stood half-full. The recently uncorked one was a brooding, foursquare monster of huge richness, density, and intensity. The bottle that had ample time to breathe had all the powerful qualities of the first yet displayed amazing blackberry syrup-like flavors, a suave personality, and massive (yet ripe) tannin. While I normally shy away from cellaring Burgundies from young vines for extended periods of time, this blockbuster may well be an exception from that rule and will need time to become civilized. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2020+. Bravo! Becky Wasserman Selection / Le Serbet; French Fax: 011-33-3-80-24-29-70, various American importers, including Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3800