2017 Delas Frères Côte-Rôtie La Landonne

The 2017 Côte Rôtie La Landonne is a candidate for the wine of the vintage and offers everything you could want from Côte Rôtie. Revealing a deep purple color as well as a gorgeous perfume of black raspberries, blackberries, toasted spice, violets, and spring flowers, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, no hard edges, and ample yet sweet tannins. This remarkable effort has loads of richness and intensity yet stays weightless and elegant. As I wrote in the barrel reviews, it's atypically charming and forward, yet it's going to nevertheless cruise in cool cellars for upwards of two decades given its balance. Delas Frères continues to fire on all cylinders under the guidance of Jacques Granges, who came on board as the head winemaker in June of 1997. Jacques also has the talented Claire Darnaud helping with the winemaking and, unquestionably, the top wines here are world-class in every way. In addition, the estate has just completed construction on a new cellar located in the heart of Tain l’Hermitage. In addition to the single vineyard, the estate is also a treasure trove of value wines, both from the Northern and Southern Rhône.

Bottled just two weeks prior to my visit, the 2017 Cote Rotie La Landonne shows more raspberry and blueberry fruit than most La Landonnes, adding those delectable nuances to more typical mocha and roasted meat notes. Medium to full-bodied, it's lush, creamy and long, with up to two decades of aging potential. It's complete and elegant without being showy, just lovely stuff. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent notes.

Dark stones, graphite, sarsaparilla and black pepper, as well as a swathe of attractive spices and red plums. Black cherries, too. The palate has a very sleek and muscular feel with a smoothly delivered build of tannin and a spicy, elegant edge. 100% syrah. Try from 2025.