2019 Donnafugata Passito di Pantelleria Ben Rye

The 2019 Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryé is an aromatic rollercoaster of tropical fruits and nectars, blending mango and papaya with peach preserves, then exotic sweet spices and florals, yet with an airy smoky note that pulls it all together. This is weighty, like honey, and nearly as sweet, with bright acids and a saline-mineral tinge that both lifts the expression while also adding savory depth. The finale, if you can call it a finale, seals the deal with its tremendous length and kaleidoscope of flavors, as kiwi, Jordan Almonds, candied orange peels, citrus sorbet and butter cookies all make an appearance. But the best part of all is that the 2019 never tires the senses and keeps urging me back to the glass. Brava, Donnafugata. This is, without a doubt, the most complete Ben Ryé that I’ve ever tasted.

A really complex dessert wine that can still remember that it was made from grapes, and the aromatic Zibibbo grape gives this an extraordinary range of aromas, from caramelized mandarin orange and dried apricot to black tea, via popcorn and sauteed peanuts. Such a beautiful balance of lush exotic-fruit and orange flavors and lively acidity. Everything fits so neatly and this still tastes fantastic now, but the longer you wait the better! Drink or hold.