2016 Gilles Barge Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde

Raspberry, redcurrant, cracked black pepper and a very slightly rubbery reductive note that adds a savoury snap to the palate. Very dry, but with mouth-watering refreshment too. Soy and star anise on the finish, with some leathery character too – perhaps that's the reduction again? (RH)

Inky ruby. Lively, mineral- and spice-accented cherry and black raspberry aromas are underscored by building game and floral elements. Juicy and energetic on the palate, offering appealingly sweet red and blue fruit and floral pastille flavors, accompanied by hints of licorice and smoked meat. Shows very good tension on a long, spice-tinged finish firmed by subtle, even tannins.

As to the reds, the 2016 Côte Rôtie Côte Blonde comes from one of the top terroirs in Côte Rôtie and is a blend of 95% Syrah and 5% Viognier that will see 24-36 months in 600-liter barrels. With notes of raspberries, flowers, violets, and damp earth, it’s medium-bodied, elegant, and finesse-driven on the palate. It lacks a touch of mid-palate depth yet is classic, straight, and pure. This traditionally run, family estate pulls mostly from the Côte Brune side of Côte Rôtie. The wines are made by the young Julien Barge, with assistance from his father, Gilles Barge. These latest wines are the finest I’ve tasted from this estate.