2011 Tablas Creek Esprit de Tablas

The only 2011 reviewed here, the 2011 Esprit de Tablas is meaty, earthy and chewy, with its Mourvedre component front and center. Made from 40% Mourvedre, 30% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Counoise, it offers up notions of black fruits, peppered meats, earth and leather to go with a medium to full-bodied, juicy, and focused profile on the palate. Showing good, not great, levels of concentration, as well as plenty of integrated tannin, this is a much more streamlined vintage for this cuvee. It will be better in another year, and drink nicely through 2023. This was an enjoyable tasting with Jason Haas and winemaker Neal Collins. Looking at the 2012s, this was an above-average crop, and it shows in the wines, with most possessing lighter colors and more mid-weight depth and textures. While there’s plenty to like here, it is not my favorite vintage from this estate and I hope it’s a result of the vintage and not a stylistic change. The 2013s are better, but still lack the depth and richness of a top year. Looking at the 2012 reds, these come across as lighter weight, streamlined and forward efforts that lack depth and richness. Given the quality that’s present in the vintage as a whole, these are a disappointment. Starting off the 2013s, all of which were tasted out of barrel, these appear to be a step up from the ‘12s, yet still show mostly mid-weight depth and richness. Tel. (805) 237-1231; www.tablascreek.com

Dark red cherries, mint, sage, tobacco, licorice and game take shape in the 2011 Esprit de Tablas. The mid-weight, translucent style is quite Burgundian. Distinctly wild, Mourvèdre-inflected nuances are laced throughout the expressive, perfumed finish. The blend is 40% Mourvèdre, 30% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Counoise.

(40% mourvedre, 30% grenache, 20% syrah and 10% counoise): Bright ruby. An assertively perfumed bouquet evokes black raspberry, blood orange and peppery spices, with suave floral pastille nuances. Spicy and precise on the palate, offering lively dark fruit and floral pastille flavors underscored by hints of white pepper and allspice. Finishes long and gently tannic, with powerful notes of spicecake and dark fruit preserves