2007 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Granite de la Clisson

One of the most impressive youthful Muscadets of my experience had spent nearly eight years in the bottle when I re-tasted it. Some of the pungency and punch as well as the sense of ripe fruit that characterized this wine early on have now faded slightly. That pungency encompassed a faintly flor- or buckwheat-like note that, when combined with lemon zest, put me in mind of the Jura. But the bottle evolution of this beauty has been in a rarified direction of clarity and of getting down to the minerally essence of its genre. The impression of transparency to intriguing stony and crystalline mineral nuances as well as the combination of satiny texture with levity and refreshment are striking and compelling, and a lick of salt often associated by Nantes growers with granitic soils is still mouthwateringly present.