1996 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 1er Cru

(from a bottle opened at the domaine). There is noticeable secondary character adding breadth to the still attractively fresh dark berry, earth and underbrush-inflected aromas. In much the same fashion as the nose there is good freshness and plenty of punch to the mineral-laced middle weight flavors that are supported by still moderately firm tannins and enough acidity to notice on the ever-so-mildly drying finish. I emphasize "mildly drying" because the finish stops well short of being clipped or austere and with food I should think that the dryness would be all but invisible. For my taste this has arrived at its apogee but should be capable of holding here for years to come. In sum, this is one of the riper examples of the '96 vintage and the ample complexity makes this most attractive. Now+