2000 Domaine Henri Bonneau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve des Celestins
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The 2000 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve des Célestins is elegance in a glass, opening with intense spicebox, forest floor, melted licorice and fleshy undertones. Superbly balanced by bright acidity and markedly less powerful compared to other vintages like the 1998 or 2005, the energetic and refined 2000 is a thrilling Réserve des Célestins from the late Henri Bonneau. This is at its peak, where I suspect it will reside for at least five more years.
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Robert Parker
Robert Parker
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The 2000 Réserve des Célestins has perfumed and expressive aromatics of garrigue, spice, tapenade, leather and earth that lead into a full bodied, rich palate. The wine has a great texture, impeccable balance and has a long finish. While still a youngster, this is very approachable now.
The 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Celestins has notes of sweaty saddle leather, roasted meats, dried Provencal herbs, and plenty of kirsch and black currant. Big and fleshy, with a hint of balsamic vinegar, and oodles of complexity and richness, it is no doubt controversial because it is so extreme in its aromas and flavors. But I love it. While I don’t think it’s one of Bonneau’s most noteworthy achievements, it is certainly a powerful 2000 that will evolve for another 15-20 years. The irrepressible Henri Bonneau is still in control, but seems to be slowly inching his way into a quasi-retirement with his new collaborator, Michel Roman, working hand-in-hand with him in the cellar assisted by Henri’s son Marcel. Tasting here is always a lesson in classic, traditionally made Chateauneuf du Pape that appears to be produced the way wines were several hundred or so years ago. Few producers take the risk of aging their Chateauneuf du Papes as long as Bonneau does, especially in cellars that would make a modern-day oenologist seek psychiatric help. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173
About the producer
This very old-school property makes the most unique Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The wines are fantastically complex and Boneauu made it as it would have been produced 100 years ago in the commune, using methods that familiar to any of the 11 generations of vignerons in his family who preceded him.