1992 Domaine de Montille Volnay Taillepieds 1er Cru

I am in the minority on the subject of Montille's wines. Just about every Burgundy wine writer extolls in glowing terms how these classic vins de garde are authoritatively rich, compelling examples of Pommard and Volnay. Unfortunately, I believed them. Having purchased, cellared, and opened many Montille Pommards and Volnays from the seventies and eighties, I note that far too many of this estate's wines turn out to be disappointingly thin, appallingly high in acidity, astringently tannic, and while enticingly perfumed, they lack fruit and balance. Occasionally (1971 and 1978), the Pommard Les Rugiens can be excellent, but never has it been stunning. Other vintages (1976, 1979, 1980, 1985, 1986, and 1988) have been disappointing. I am not sure things have improved, as recent vintages of the wines (which are never meant to be flattering in their youth) have seemed abnormally hard and abrasive (i.e., 1990). Perhaps the other writers are correct and miracles do occur after two decades of life in the bottle. While I did not taste the 1993s from Montille, I did taste the 1992s since they have been in the bottle for nearly a year. The three 1992s I tasted, the Volnay Les Champans (76), Volnay Les Taillepieds (74?), and Pommard Les Rugiens (76), could have been mistaken for 1993s given their hardness, severity, and lack of fruit. These wines have no place to go but down. I can only imagine how ferocious the 1993s must be in light of this producer's style. Isn't it time for a reality check? Various American importers.