2009 Domaine de Cristia Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes

Easier to read than the backwards, tight Cuvee Renaissance, the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes is 100% Grenache that was aged in smaller, older barrels. It is a blockbuster Grenache that's overflowing with notions of sweet cassis, blackberries, smoked herbs, garrigue and licorice. Full-bodied, sweetly fruited, voluptuous, hedonistic and unctuously textured, it's a no-holds-barred expression of old-vine Grenache to enjoy anytime over the coming decade.

(100% grenache): Bright ruby. Oak-spiced aromas of candied cherry and dark berry preserves, with smoke and vanilla accents. Round and seamless on the palate, offering sweet dark fruit and vanilla flavors and a hint of dark chocolate. Closes on a sweet note, with solid punch and lingering sweetness. My score will go up if this wine absorbs its oak.

A gorgeous, full bore Grenache blend, the 2009 Domaine de Cristia Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes isn’t for those craving delicacy or light flavors and boasts massively perfumed aromas of kirsch and blackberry liqueur, freshly snipped flowers, ground stone, and creamy licorice. Full-bodied and hedonistically styled on the palate, yet with solid poise and focus, the wine is voluptuously textured, beautifully balanced, and shows fine-grained, ripe tannin on the long finish. As with the Renaissance, this needs a year or three to really come into its own, and should evolve for over a decade.