2012 Turley Zinfandel Rattlesnake Ridge

(15.1% alcohol; from a cool, high-altitude site, at nearly 2,600 feet): Good dark red. High-toned perfume of blackberry, mocha, coffee, wild herbs, licorice and pepper. Dense and juicy in the mouth, with lovely aromatic lift and energy to the red berry and spice flavors. Finishes with big, chewy, slightly drying tannins that call for a couple years of patience.

The sensational, rich, full-bodied 2012 Zinfandel Rattlesnake Ridge is one of the most concentrated, expressive and exuberant of these 2012 Zins. Turley Wine Cellars has long been one of the more enviable wine operations in California. Larry Turley should, and does, receive enormous credit for nearly single-handedly preserving many of the heritage old vine Zinfandel sites that exist in northern California. Most of them were threatened with being torn up with what was believed to be more popular varietals such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. This estate produces nearly thirty single vineyard Zinfandels and Petite Syrahs, all from organically farmed vineyards. Natural yeast fermentations have always been the rule, and the percentage of new oak used has dropped from a high of 30% to about half that. Their Zinfandels are never shy, but tasting through the 2012s, it appears they are not as extracted as they once were, but the alcohols remain in the 15% to 16% range because Zinfandel is rarely ripe at lower sugars. It appears that Larry Turley was destined to resuscitate these old vine vineyards as he worked for a quarter of a century as an emergency room doctor. He now works full time shaping wines from nearly three dozen old vine parcels. As he says, he’s never met an old vine vineyard he didn’t like. Turley’s long-time assistant winemaker, Ehren Jordan, has left to pursue his own project (Failla Wines), but Turley has the highly competent Tegan Passalacqua as his wingman. Virtually every one of these 2012 Zinfandels will be drinkable upon release in 2014, and should last for 6-8 years. Larry Turley was one of the first to exploit some of the old vine vineyards planted in sandy soils from the backwater areas of Lodi and Contra Costa. The two Contra Costa sites include the Duarte and Salvador, both ancient vineyards with the Salvador directly planted on its own roots in 1896. The Duarte was named after a prominent grower in Contra Costa. The Petite Syrahs are different animals altogether and most of them should keep for 30-40 years – at a minimum! Tel. (707) 963-0940

Like the Dragon, the 2012 Zinfandel Rattlesnake Ridge (also from Howell Mountain) comes across a bit light in this vintage. Dark red cherries, plums, mint, licorice and anise all meld together in the glass. Floral and spice notes emerge over time, adding depth and complexity in this crystalline, nicely balanced Zinfandel. I find a little more depth in the Rattlesnake than the Dragon.