NV Pol Roger Brut Extra Cuvée de Reserve

The latest rendition of Pol Roger’s NV Brut Réserve is based on the 2021 vintage and includes 30% reserve wines from the 2020, 2019 and 2018 vintages. Disgorged in October 2024 with a dosage of eight grams per liter, the wine bursts from the glass with an expressive bouquet of crisp pear, orange zest, ripe peach and delicate pastry notes. On the palate, it is medium- to full-bodied, with a vibrant core of fruit and admirable balance, despite what might sound like a relatively generous dosage. It is infused with bright acidity and culminates in a persistent, saline finish. Composed in equal parts of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier, this cuvée is immediately appealing upon release yet possesses the structure to reward several years of cellaring, revealing the charm of a finely matured Champagne.

The NV Champagne Brut Reserve release is equal parts Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Meunier, with 25% reserve wine (3-4 years of wines), and it’s based on the 2020 harvest. A bright pale silver/yellow hue, it opens to fresh and fruity notes of graham cracker, ripe pear, fresh flowers, and wet stones. Medium-bodied and inviting, it’s a perfect aperitif, with a fresh and fruity note, a lively mousse, and a clean finish. Lovely, fruity, and refreshing, it can also be enjoyed at the end of a meal. Drink it over the next several years. Disgorged April 2024. 8 grams per liter dosage.

Full bottle 1,636 g. A bottle of the old White Foil decorated with white Chinese letters and a painting or two to celebrate Altaya Wine's tenth anniversary in 2011. Founder Paulo Pong assures me that a bottle tasted recently was in good condition. Pol UK importer James Simpson MW tells me it will have been based on either 2006 (with 2005, 2004 and 2003) or 2008 (with 2007, 2006 and 2005) with a dosage of 10 or 11 g/l, quite a bit higher than today. 'Should be terrific!', he assured me. Deep golden straw. Very mature, toasty nose verging on lightly oxidised. Very much goût anglais. I suspect Michael Broadbent MW would love it. Still nice mousse. But still going very strong the night after I first tasted it. Masses of pleasure, albeit not bone-dry pleasure. (JR)