2018 Podere Le Ripi Brunello di Montalcino Lupie e Sirene Riserva

The 2018 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Lupi e Sirene comes from a two-hectare site with dark soils located east of Castelnuovo dell'Abate. The bouquet evokes ripe fruit and raspberry jam, and there are drying notes of clay, candied orange peel and desiccated rose. I also get an earthy note with compost, garden soil, wild mint and fennel. The wine's balsam character is quite strong. Production is 12,300 bottles and 400 magnums.

An enticing blend of dusty rose, cinnamon and clove gives way to lifting traces of mint and dried strawberries as the sweetly spiced 2018 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Lupi e Sirene blossoms in the glass. This is pure elegance, with velvety textures guided by fresh acidity and polished red and blue fruits complicated by a savory herbal thrust toward the close. The balance here is otherworldly. The 2018 finishes with unexpected vibrancy despite a web of fine tannins that grumble on as licorice notes slowly fade. Packed full of character and holding its power in reserve, the 2018 is a textural thrill ride. This is on a beautiful, yet slow, path to maturity.

Dark ruby. At first a tiny bit reduced and reluctant to open up. With aeration, morocco leather, Asian spice and cherry fruit. Lush, layered cherry fruit, that lacks a tiny bit in depth. Gripping chewy tannins on the finish. Not easy to see where this is going. (WS)