2009 Delas Frères Saint-Joseph Cuvée François de Tournon

The 2009 St.-Joseph Francois de Tournon is showing even better than it did last year out of barrel. An inky/purple color is followed by notes of graphite, smoke, blackberries, cassis, road tar and truffles. With layers of fruit, an unctuous texture and tremendous purity and depth, this stunning effort is a great sleeper of this fabulous northern Rhone vintage. It should drink well for 10-15 years or longer. Another great negociant with significant vineyard holdings, and at the top of their game, is undeniably Delas, owned by the Louis Roederer/Deutz Champagne firm. Since they acquired Delas well over a decade ago, this firm has been under the management of Burgundian Jacques Grange, who has done an outstanding job producing a sensational array of wines. The 2009s appear to be their finest overall performances to date, and the 2010s are noteworthy successors in a more restrained, mineral dominated, crisper style. Jacques Grange did a fabulous job with his Cote Roties in both 2009 and 2010, the latter being a somewhat more challenging vintage in this appellation. The Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes (until the 2009 vintage, this offering was known as the Hermitage Marquise de la Tourette) is sensational in both 2010 and 2009. Three thousand cases of this cuvee are produced, and the wine is aged in French oak, 50% new. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Glass-staining ruby. A spicy, highly fragrant nose displays blackberry, violet and orange peel, with hints of spice cake and black olive. Dense, sappy and chewy but surprisingly lithe; the intense dark berry and floral pastille flavors are at once taut and rich, with dusty minerality adding spine. Finishes silky and long, with fine-grained tannins and lingering spiciness.