1994 Château Monbousquet

It is no secret to anyone following the Bordeaux wine scene that Monbousquet, with its new young, passionate proprietor, is pushing the envelop of quality. As a result, recent vintages have produced the finest wines I have ever tasted from this estate. Yields for 1993 were just over two tons an acre, and in 1994 and 1995, well under two tons an acre. In addition to trying to emulate the great success enjoyed by such St.-Emilion chateaux as Angelus, Troplong-Mondot, and Valandraud, Monbousquet is being bottled with no fining or filtration. Opaque purple-colored, with a tight but promising nose of cherry jam, blackcurrants, smoked herbs, and grilled meats, this dense, chewy, medium to full-bodied wine exhibits the vintage's tough tannin. However, this 1994 possesses enough fruit, glycerin, and extract to counterbalance the wine's structure. It will need 2-3 years of cellaring, yet promises to keep for 15 years.