2003 Bonny Doon Le Cigare Volant

(35% mourvedre, 32% syrah, 26% grenache and 7% cinsault) Bright red. Mineral-driven red berry and dark cherry aromas are complemented by licorice, espresso and pungent herbs. Firm and youthfully wound-up on entry, with spicy red and dark berry flavors and slow-building tannins. Sweeter on the finish, but also turns more bitter, picking up dark berry prese rve and roasted coffee notes Plenty rich and full-flavored, but a tad warm.

The straightforward 2003 Le Cigare Volant possesses a medium ruby color as well as a light, somewhat diluted perfume of red fruits, pepper, earth, and a hint of Provence. This light-bodied effort tastes more like an $8-10 Cotes du Rhone than a $32 wine. Tel. (831) 425-3625