2014 Immich-Batterieberg - Riesling C A I

This largely tank-raised bottling – labeled Kabinett, albeit in tiny print, since that designation still has some cachet, and the wine is never chaptalized – incorporates fruit from diverse and far-flung Greater Mosel vineyards, including quite a bit from Dhroner Hofberg, some from young parcels on the Immich estate, and a significant share from old Saar vines in Oberemmeler Altenberg and Wiltinger Klosterberg that were lovingly restored (and formerly vinified) by Moritz Gogrewe. Legally dry, yet harboring a remarkably low 9.8 percent alcohol, it features scents of moss, wet stone, musk, lime peel, peach kernel and hazelnut. The palate is treated to a similarly complex array, and here a silken texture coexists with fresh apple juiciness and citric tang. The buoyant, interactive, invigorating and refreshing finish incorporates a mouthwatering lick of salt. This C.A.I. upholds a reputation for offering exceptional value.