2009 Domaine Henri Boillot Meursault Charmes 1er Cru

The 2009 Meursault Les Charmes is surprisingly compact for the site and year. It shows plenty of length and focus, but not the radiance that is so typical of Charmes, especially in 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. This is a beautiful set of wines from Henri Boillot’s negociant line. The entry-level wines in particular offer fabulous value. If anything, those are the most interesting wines here. When tasting Burgundy it is tempting to assume that premier crus are better than villages, and grand crus are better than the premiers, but that is often not the case, especially in a warm vintage where lesser sites ripened to a greate extent than is typically possible. Shrewd readers will find many jewels in this lineup, but they won’t be in the most likely places. In 2011 Boillot will have several new wines in his range, including Referts and Combettes. The 2009 villages were bottled in November, while the premier crus were bottled in January 2011. Importer: Various US importers, including Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769

(aging in 60% new 350-liter barrels) Bright, pale yellow. Subtly complex scents of citrus fruit, minerals, vanilla and clove. Silky and voluminous, but with underlying minerality and a saline quality keeping it fresh and serious. The very long finish boasts excellent spine. From high up in Charmes, on the Puligny side.