2008 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Fixin Frere et Soeur Clos du Chapitre 1er Cru

Ripe blackberry and an even more prominently sweet and earthy beet root character than exhibited by the corresponding village bottling characterizes Meo-Camuzet’s 2008 Fixin Clos Du Chapitre Frere et Soeur. Hints of horseradish give the palate a tart, borscht-like aspect that won’t be every pinotphile’s cup of soup, but I find it delicious. The brightness here contrasts sharply with the harmonious richness of the 2006 rendition, but each offers its unique and excellent opportunity to experience Fixin that doesn’t conform to the tough, stolid stereotype that one too often finds confirmed by examples even from quite talented vintners. A smoky-sweet machine oil-like note emerges in the nose as this opens to the air, and fruit bit piquancy further underscores its concentration in a sustained finish. This should be interesting to follow for at least the next 6-8 years. Jean-Nicolas Meo emphasized the contrast between the low pHs of his 2008s (typical, of course, for this vintage in general) and the high pHs of 2007, which ironically – since the latter were given a higher dosage of sulfur as a precaution against undesirable bacteriological activity – led, he reported, to 2007s that showed a harder side initially than many of the corresponding 2008s. Given the high acids of 2008, says Meo, he preferred to let the fruit hang longer – even despite some shriveling – so that few of the musts were chaptalized and most were 13% or higher in natural alcohol. Typical for this address, the wines display admirable, even unusually strong sweetness of fruit, but in 2008 accompanied by prominent tannins and notes of new wood. Meo compares his 2008s with 2001 and 1996, opining that his wines from those two vintages have for the most part – in contrast with many 1993s – evolved nicely and without exhibiting excessive stiffness or hardness. I caught some 2008s in bottle and others from tank just before bottling, and the several 2007s I tasted alongside showed well, although Meo – in contrast with most growers – thinks his 2008 fruit was superior even in sheer ripeness. (Negociant wines – some from parcels the Meos in fact farm – are noted as “Frere et Soeur.”) Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524. Also a Jean-Marie de Champs Selection (various importers), French fax 011 33 3 80 22 58 25