2016 Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino

Fermented in small tronconic unlined concrete tanks. After the alcoholic fermentation the wine stayed for another 20 days on the skins. Aged in large oak casks and 500- and 700-litre French oak tonneaux. Concentrated ruby. A rich nose with plenty of depth and hints of fruit cake. Full, supple and generous fruit with bags of slightly rustic tannins. Seems ready except for the tannins, which need more time to settle. (WS)

The wines of Donatella Cinelli Colombini are always something of a homecoming for me as I vividly remember my first sips almost 20 years ago. It is a great honor to witness their evolution over all these years. The estate's winning card is consistency, with steady results delivered year in and year out, although the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino takes the game up a notch. This wine offers purity and brightness to a degree I don't remember seeing in past vintages. This Brunello fully embraces the sharpness and linearity that this classic vintage will be celebrated for. Red cherry fruit and fresh plum follow to earthy tones, leather and balsam herb. This vintage counts 35,000 bottles made.

I’m finding a depth and richness in the 2016 Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino that I haven’t witnessed from this bottling in previous vintages. The bouquet sets the stage with a mix of crushed black cherries, plums, incense and exotic brown spices. It’s silky, almost creamy in texture, finding balance through juicy acids, as purple-tinged red and black fruits flesh out, leaving tactile mineral tones under an inner air of lavender and violets. This maintains perfect poise in spite of a larger-scaled feel, tapering off to a coating of fine tannins with hints of black tea and dark chocolate.