2002 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Hochrain Smaragd

Lime fruit and fresh apricot aromas. Very bright and juicy on the palate, with uplifting ripe acids but also a compact sense of extract that sets it apart from the other wines here today. Pure, deep, refined flavors of citrus and pit fruits and nut oil are set off by an almost austerely stony mineral bass line. Exceptionally long, penetrating and evocative even by the exceedingly high house standards. Harvested in two passes, in mid-November. 2 stars.