2022 Anas-Cetta Langhe Nascetta di Novello

A wine like this adds an exciting splash of gold to a wine region that is celebrated for its ruby reds. Always refreshing, the Elvio Cogno 2022 Langhe Nascetta del Comune di Novello Anas-Cëtta offers an exciting change of pace with honeysuckle, white peach, apple and quince. There are salty hints of crushed mineral too. The wine shows medium body and enough textural density to pair with baked fish or white meat. Some 18,000 bottles were made.

Bottled two days ago. the 2022 Nascetta Del Comune Di Novello Anas-Cetta is exuberant with aromas of broth and tropical, herbal, and saline notes. Medium-bodied, with a lovely waxy viscosity, it reveals elements of saline and fresh pineapple, without feeling bloated or heavy. It has an Alpine sensibility, with a light bitter almond note on the finish as well as lime blossom and citrus. This fresh white would work over a broad spectrum of food pairings and could be a sommelier’s secret weapon. Elvio Cogno founded his eponymous estate in 1991, after working for 30 years in partnership with Marcarini with the labels of Cogno-Marcarini. Originally from Novello, he had an opportunity to purchase the winery farmhouse, Cascina Nuova, located in the commune of Novello, in the heart of the Ravera Cru (MGA). That same year, he put Ravera on the map by producing the first-ever bottling of Barolo labeled as Ravera. They currently operate and own 16 hectares of vines, 11 of which are within the Cru of Ravera, and the remaining 5 hectares are parcels around the Novello Comune. Today the estate is run by Elvio’s son-in-law, Valter Fissore, and his daughter Nadia, who took over in 1996. In the vineyards, they continue to push forward, working to improve vineyard health and implement organic farming practices while adapting to the region's changing climate conditions. The total annual production is approximately 120,000 bottles. Their key holdings include the pre-phylloxera Barbera sourced from Berri on the western edge of La Morra, from 130-year-old vines. They survive because of the sandier soils and the cooler microclimate, which sees more wind coming off the river to the west. Less than 2000 bottles are produced each year. The Barolo from Bricco Pernice is a warmer microclimate within Ravera, as it is sheltered from the winds coming off the mountains, with soils that are a higher proportion of limestone compared to the other plots within Ravera. Bricco Pernice is entirely composed of the Lampia clone of Nebbiolo. Also within Ravera, Elvio planted Vigna Elena in 1991, the same year Valter and Nadia’s daughter Elena was born. It is a triangle-shaped parcel, uniquely planted exclusively to the Rose clone of Nebbiolo, whereas the rest of their Nebbiolo vines are composed of Michet and Lampia clones. In 2005, they had the opportunity to work with Bordini in Neive to begin producing their Barbaresco. Each of the following wines was tasted at their tasting room with Valter Fissore in March of 2023. Across the range, the wines showed wonderful purity, with each wine having a unique and singular stamp, making them some of the most enjoyable and expressive wines from the area, and I highly recommend seeking them out.