2021 Barbera d'Alba Bricco dei Merli

The 2021 Barbera d'Alba Bricco dei Merli (with 10,000 bottles produced) shows a beautifully fruity, almost juicy personality that paints an authentic portrait of this grape. The Congo winemaking team has worked out its approach to elegant wines. This Barbera does not show any of the excesses, like sourness or too much acidity, that can sometimes characterize Barbera when made in less capable hands.

Notes of sour cherries and redcurrants with citrus peel and floral undertones. Juicy and savory with medium body and crunchy red berry character. Vivid finish. Drink now.

From 50- to 60-year-old vines, the 2021 Barbera D'Alba is fresh with notes of blackberry, violet, and black pepper followed by a pure, fresh, full-bodied (but not heavy) red. With fine tannins, a silky texture, and a vertical lift on the finish, this pleasant wine casts a long net for appreciation and can pair across the table. Drink over the next 5-10 years. Elvio Cogno founded his eponymous estate in 1991, after working for 30 years in partnership with Marcarini with the labels of Cogno-Marcarini. Originally from Novello, he had an opportunity to purchase the winery farmhouse, Cascina Nuova, located in the commune of Novello, in the heart of the Ravera Cru (MGA). That same year, he put Ravera on the map by producing the first-ever bottling of Barolo labeled as Ravera. They currently operate and own 16 hectares of vines, 11 of which are within the Cru of Ravera, and the remaining 5 hectares are parcels around the Novello Comune. Today the estate is run by Elvio’s son-in-law, Valter Fissore, and his daughter Nadia, who took over in 1996. In the vineyards, they continue to push forward, working to improve vineyard health and implement organic farming practices while adapting to the region's changing climate conditions. The total annual production is approximately 120,000 bottles. Their key holdings include the pre-phylloxera Barbera sourced from Berri on the western edge of La Morra, from 130-year-old vines. They survive because of the sandier soils and the cooler microclimate, which sees more wind coming off the river to the west. Less than 2000 bottles are produced each year. The Barolo from Bricco Pernice is a warmer microclimate within Ravera, as it is sheltered from the winds coming off the mountains, with soils that are a higher proportion of limestone compared to the other plots within Ravera. Bricco Pernice is entirely composed of the Lampia clone of Nebbiolo. Also within Ravera, Elvio planted Vigna Elena in 1991, the same year Valter and Nadia’s daughter Elena was born. It is a triangle-shaped parcel, uniquely planted exclusively to the Rose clone of Nebbiolo, whereas the rest of their Nebbiolo vines are composed of Michet and Lampia clones. In 2005, they had the opportunity to work with Bordini in Neive to begin producing their Barbaresco. Each of the following wines was tasted at their tasting room with Valter Fissore in March of 2023. Across the range, the wines showed wonderful purity, with each wine having a unique and singular stamp, making them some of the most enjoyable and expressive wines from the area, and I highly recommend seeking them out.