2019 Anas-Cetta Langhe Nascetta di Novello
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Tasting notes
The 2019 Nascetta Del Comune Di Novello Anas-Cetta is fresh with rosemary, white flowers, and chalky earth. It is much more linear and driving in its persistence throughout, with saline and a bit more acidity without moving into austerity. It drives through the palate with citrus pith and melon rind. Drink over the next 15 years. Elvio Cogno founded his eponymous estate in 1991, after working for 30 years in partnership with Marcarini with the labels of Cogno-Marcarini. Originally from Novello, he had an opportunity to purchase the winery farmhouse, Cascina Nuova, located in the commune of Novello, in the heart of the Ravera Cru (MGA). That same year, he put Ravera on the map by producing the first-ever bottling of Barolo labeled as Ravera. They currently operate and own 16 hectares of vines, 11 of which are within the Cru of Ravera, and the remaining 5 hectares are parcels around the Novello Comune. Today the estate is run by Elvio’s son-in-law, Valter Fissore, and his daughter Nadia, who took over in 1996. In the vineyards, they continue to push forward, working to improve vineyard health and implement organic farming practices while adapting to the region's changing climate conditions. The total annual production is approximately 120,000 bottles. Their key holdings include the pre-phylloxera Barbera sourced from Berri on the western edge of La Morra, from 130-year-old vines. They survive because of the sandier soils and the cooler microclimate, which sees more wind coming off the river to the west. Less than 2000 bottles are produced each year. The Barolo from Bricco Pernice is a warmer microclimate within Ravera, as it is sheltered from the winds coming off the mountains, with soils that are a higher proportion of limestone compared to the other plots within Ravera. Bricco Pernice is entirely composed of the Lampia clone of Nebbiolo. Also within Ravera, Elvio planted Vigna Elena in 1991, the same year Valter and Nadia’s daughter Elena was born. It is a triangle-shaped parcel, uniquely planted exclusively to the Rose clone of Nebbiolo, whereas the rest of their Nebbiolo vines are composed of Michet and Lampia clones. In 2005, they had the opportunity to work with Bordini in Neive to begin producing their Barbaresco. Each of the following wines was tasted at their tasting room with Valter Fissore in March of 2023. Across the range, the wines showed wonderful purity, with each wine having a unique and singular stamp, making them some of the most enjoyable and expressive wines from the area, and I highly recommend seeking them out.
Critic scores
Average Score
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Jeb Dunnuck
More reviews and scores
The 2019 Anas-Cëtta is delicate and understated in the glass. Lemon peel, white flowers, tangerine oil and mineral undertones all grace this subtle, nuanced white from Cogno. In 2019, the Anas-Cëtta is especially delicate.
Nutty, citrus and stone fruit, a layer of stone-dust giving a mineral character. Sour intensity on the palate balanced by the roundness of the fruit. Complex and likely to become more so. Firm texture, long finish. (JH)
A wine that always turns heads, the Elvio Cogno 2019 Langhe Nascetta del Comune di Novello Anas-Cëtta is a mid-weight, glycerin-rich white made from an indigenous grape that is rare and dear to the region of Langa. There are aspects of this wine that remind me of the Arneis grape (another local favorite). The wine's smooth and creamy mouthfeel is one element shared between the two. So are those aromas of honey, white peach, pear and acacia flower. Aged in both stainless steel and botte grande, this wine has the textural richness to pair with white meat and even a few red meat dishes. An ample 15,000 bottles were made.