2024 Pouilly Fume Les Calcis

The Pouilly-Fumé Les Calcis has ripeness and concentration, which is a feat in 2024. This has an excellent gourmand texture from long lees ageing coupled with balanced acidity to provide praiseworthy structure. However, there's a slightly oxidative, apple cider-tinged, farmyard character that proves distracting. The purity of fruit and sense of place should be the main event but instead the imperfections are hard to look past. This has the makings of a far more pedigreed wine.