2020 Syrah Seymour's Vineyard
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Lastly, the 2020 Syrah Seymour's is a monster of a Syrah that somehow stays pure, focused, and tight. Cassis, graphite, scorched earth, and smoked meat that reminds me of a great vintage of Guigal's Côte-Rôtie La Turque all emerge from this beauty. Rich, full-bodied, and dense, it has flawless balance, a monster of a mid-palate, and ripe, polished tannins. Hide bottles for 4-5 years if you can and enjoy over the following 30 years. Drink 2030-2060. Founded by John Alban in the mid-1980s, Alban Vineyards was the first estate in California dedicated exclusively to Rhône varieties and remains one of the world’s great wine estates. Based at the far end of the Edna Valley, it stands alone in the region, producing wines of a quality unmatched for miles in any direction. While vintages here sometimes echo the broader Central Coast, they just as often chart their own course, resulting in singular wines with a character all their own. A defining feature of the cellar is a long four-year élevage, which lends the wines their depth, exotic richness, and extraordinary ability to age. The portfolio centers on Syrah, Grenache, Viognier, and Roussanne, and Alban continues to be the reference point for Rhône varieties in California. Looking at the vintages reviewed here, you have two absolutely brilliant yet dramatically different sets of wines. The 2020s come from a scorching hot year and are classic Alban, showing massive richness and opulence. While Paso Robles and the North Coast were affected by smoke in 2020, the Edna Valley escaped unscathed, and these wines can be purchased with confidence. In contrast, the 2021s are more inward, concentrated, and built around good acidity and ripe tannins. Coming from a cooler, longer growing season with welcome rainfall (by California standards), they shine for their purity, balance, and vibrancy while still bringing incredible concentration. These are built for the cellar and will handsomely reward patience. They are unquestionably world-class wines not to be missed.
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Jeb Dunnuck
Matthew Luczy, Wine Advocate
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Tasted just prior to its June bottling, the 2020 Syrah Seymour's Vineyard holds a unique spot in the Alban array of red wines, with its gamey meat-driven aromatics the most reminiscent of the Northern Rhône wines that inspired it. These savory elements fuse with opaque fruit compote as charred, smoldering incense and sandalwood complexity develops with time in the glass. The palate is immensely powerful and svelte but avoids overripe character, transitioning to a finish that lifts clear of its fruit-driven core and displays admirable, nuanced, fine-grained tannins. This deserves a few years to unwind in the cellar, but it should age and develop nicely over the following decade and beyond.