2007 Domaine Marc Morey & Fils Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 1er Cru

The Morey 2007 Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot smells fascinatingly and alluringly of high-toned almond and pistachio extracts, jellied red fruits, and musk. It proves to be surprisingly bright and gripping on the palate for all of its lushness of texture and suggestions of high-ripeness, then takes a decidedly chalky – almost austere and tannic – turn in the finish. This wine is a bit of a puzzle, but there is a lot to like, and it would be good to re-taste it in 2010 before attempting to pronounce on its further potential. Bernard Mollard began picking September 3 and brought in his crop in short order, in the end chaptalizing no more than half a degree. His wines underwent malolactic conversion already by early Spring – typical at this domaine – and were bottled at one year. The estate’s acreage is supplemented by contracts on five parcels in which they officially act as negociant, but exercise considerable control. “I like the way 2007 respects the terroir,” comments Mollard. “You can well tell the difference from one site to another.” I don’t disagree in general, but a more obvious feature of his 2007 collection – and a very flattering one – is sheer forwardness of ripe fruit, which results in a very strong family resemblance. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083