2005 Volnay Carelle Sous la Chapelle

From a tiny and little-known cru just north of Champans and downhill from the Clos de la Bousse d’Or, de Montille’s 2005 Volnay La Carelle Sous la Chapelle smells of nutmeg- and mace- tinged plum and red cherry; displays white wine-like delicacy and refinement but almost liqueur-like sweetness of fruit and subtle creaminess of texture on the palate; then takes a surprisingly stony, salty, iodine-like mineral turn in the finish. With a front end that tastes like it came from a confectioners and a finish as though it came from the stock pot of a poissonnerie, this displays a fascinating if split personality that should be revisited in a few years. Various importers, including Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 559 1040. Also, a Thomas Calder Selection, Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29