1998 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon John Riddoch

The 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon John Riddoch shows the power and structure expected of this exceptional vintage. Still deeply coloured and flavoured, it delivers robust and hearty aromas of baked earth, vanilla bean and dark cherry fruit. Aged cedary spice shows a little development but the overall impression is of a wine with time on its side. Dry and firm, it has rich, mouth-filling flavours with ample structure still in play, which supports an impressive finish. This is a big Coonawarra red.

1998 was a warm vintage, but not hot—somewhat aligned to the more recent 2004 vintage (from a climate perspective). This 1998 John Riddoch Limited Release Cabernet Sauvignon is very fresh and alive—quite leafy at this point, there is also blackcurrant, star anise and pomegranate molasses. It is exotic, spicy and has got it all really. There is really great depth of flavor through the mid-palate and finish. Brilliant flavor saturation. Perhaps in its last decade of fruit freshness (hence the drinking "window") but will live beyond that should you wish it—we (here in Australia) regularly look at Coonawarra Cabernets from the 1980s and prior that make mockeries of conservative drinking windows.

Dark blackish ruby. Complex nose. Lively and not in the first flush of youth but fine-boned and with much more fruit than the average 1998 bordeaux! Dry finish. (JR)