2014 Lovedale Semillon

100% Semillon. 72-year-old vines at 125 m elevation at 1,600 vines/ha. Dry ice in picking bins to preserve fruit. Up to 6 hours’ pre-fermentation maceration (though less in recent vintages). Cold-settling by gravity. Inoculated with neutral yeast then cold, 2- to 3-week fermentation in stainless steel. No MLF. Four months’ total maturation in stainless steel, with 2–3 months on gross lees before bottling. Relatively high 40–50 mg/l free SO2 and 1.2 g/l CO2 at bottling (up to 1.7 g/l in older vintages bottled under cork). TA >6.5 g/l, pH 2.9–3.1, RS 0 g/l. Alcohol always between 10% and 11.5% for this wine. Approximately 500 cases made. Tasted blind. Pale lemon. Very toasty and assertive nose, with classic lanolin, wax and lime. Crisp acidity with lean, barely ripe lemon flavour. Austere and chalky textured, needing more time. Long, lanolin finish. (TJ)