2011 Quinta do Crasto Reserva Vinhas Velhas

The 2011 Reserva Old Vines (around 70 years of age on average) spent 18 months in 65% new and 35% used barriques (85% French, the rest American). The used barriques were previously new on the 2010 Reserva Old Vines. About the only bad thing you can say about this is that it is too marked by oak in its youth, but that is always true when it is young. That will become much better in time. Some cellaring will provide additional complexity as well, but it is otherwise quite approachable now even if not showing us all that it has to give. For my money, this is easily on the short list as a contender for “Best Reserva Old Vines” ever, because of its combination of concentration, lift, structure and superb balance. This is not the wine in the lineup that will always make you go “wow.” There is not a hint of bombast. However, it does everything beautifully, and balance is its hallmark. Even as it tightens with air, it proves how harmonious it is, showing off its finesse, crispness and focus. The fruit always seems fresh and lively here, never ponderous. The next day it hardly seemed changed. This should age pretty nicely. If all that is not enough, it is pretty tasty, too, a wine that will be hard to dislike on all fronts. Considering the price point, this is a “can’t miss” buy. There were 93,000 bottles produced. Drink now-2026. As nice as Crasto’s harmonious and supple 2010s were, I think most will find that the 2011s are, at least, a step up. It may, in fact, be the best set of wines that I’ve ever seen from Crasto. That’s not completely surprising, if you read my prior comments on the stature of this vintage in the article accompanying the tasting notes from Issue 210. (http://erobertparker.com/members/winedata/articles/article797.asp) There is more intensity this year than last, and a bit more lift to the wines. Yet, they always maintain their balance, too. At the upper end, to be sure, the prices are pretty pricey, but there is value to be had here as well, with the lower-level wines, right down to the entry-level Flor. Importer: Broadbent Selections, Richmond, VA; (804) 353-1843.